Edited & Curated by Dawn Mischele

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Eating with My Eyes

by Eligh Kindall

(A.N.) The following is a series of excerpts from Eligh’s Foodways During COVID-19 WordPress website. If you’d like to see the rest of their work, check out their site!

“Traveling to Idaho” by me

The beginning of spring quarter at The Evergreen State College was the beginning of many firsts for me. Though I was originally supposed to head back to Washington at the end of spring break, I was now staying at my mother’s house in Boise Idaho for the foreseeable future and starting my first quarter of online school ever. The COVID-19 pandemic had become a national emergency, and schools and businesses were closing. Above is an illustration of my me, my girlfriend, our cat, and our fish on our trip from Olympia to Boise at the beginning of spring break, unaware that when break was over, we would not be coming back. I was also beginning a cooking class- something I had also never done before and that sounded rather interesting to attempt in a remote-learning environment.

The first assignment I had as a student new to this program spring quarter was a big pivot for the students continuing from winter quarter.  Not only had their study abroad trips to China, Greece, and Italy been cancelled, but so too were case studies of immigrant foodways involving travel.  And, what for me seemed a natural focus in our key program text–the chapter on the 2003 coronavirus outbreak in China, was precisely the part of Fuchsia Dunlop’s eating memoir that prior to spring quarter no one except the faculty had read.  Here’s the “choice cut” from Dunlop’s chapter nine around which Comparative Eurasian Foodways:  Immigrant Experiences pivoted spring quarter. 

Choice cut from Dunlop: ch 9, p 150

“It was February 2003. I’d just arrived in China to start researching my second book, a collection of recipes from Hunan Province, and now I was in the midst of a major health panic. Hordes of frightened migrant workers were fleeing the centre of the growing epidemic in Guangdong Province, and many of them were returning to Hunan, which is precisely. where I was planning to spend the next four months. And, of course, most of that time would be spent in the company of chefs, now pinpointed as the main human vectors of the epidemic.”  (Dunlop and Wilson 150)

This quote was followed by these writing prompts for the week one eating memoir assignment of spring quarter’s Foodways During COVID-19 project.

Begin your post with an image of your own creation, one that illustrates how you determine the value of food. During WA State’s lockdown and social distancing what did you eat, why, and with whom? Upload a photo. Do NOT follow the faculty example as your goal is to demonstrate your own work, not to develop and illustrate an online curriculum for CEF: IE. The image included above was chosen to illustrate how Fuchsia Dunlop illustrated the value of food. What does this image say about Dunlop being a professional food writer in China and spending her time with chefs during the SARS outbreak?Bats, civet cats, pangolins?  What might you like to know about human-animal eating relationships–zoonoses–and evolutionary forces that have shaped diseases? (Here are two resources: Scott’s “Zoonoses a Perfect Epidemiological Storm” and Zhan’s Civet Cats, Fried Grasshoppers, and David Beckham’s Pajamas: Unruly Bodies after SARS.”) Who are you as an eater and how has your eating been shaped by your travel experiences? Who in your family lineage of immigrants most shaped your eating? What historical factors shaped their migration? What connections can you make to news in the world around you and the relationship between social distancing in the time of COVID-19 and contemporary immigrant foodways?

Following these prompts my faculty included this note: “I’m writing this on 3.24 and here’s the New York Times’ headline: “Yelled At, Attacked: Chinese-Americans Fear for Their Safety.” And according to a Food Navigator website headline our appetites are ethnically effected: “Coronavirus: ‘Dramatic Decline’ in Taste for Chinese and Italian Cuisines.”

I did not know it, but this period of my life would become a period of immense growth for me. After a few weeks, I had established a clear learning path: I would illustrate my images that went with my eating memoirs as a way to draw a bridge between art, food, and culture within the context of the program. A lot changed over this period of time. I got an iPad with my stimulus check because I had no reliable way to attend classes or turn in work online. by week 6, I had my iPad, and was able to start integrating in some digital drawings. In this collection you will be able to see the transition between different mediums (watercolor, colored pencil, pen, and digital) and the progress that I made within them.

Eating With My Eyes: An Illustrated Eating Memoir

Week 5
“Sharks fin soup” by me

“People want to eat delicacies like shark’s fin just because they are rare and expensive, and because they are the kind of thing emperors used to eat” (Dunlop and Wilson 262)!

I decided to illustrate my own interpretation of shark’s fin soup, not just because it is a dish of relevance throughout the entire book, Shark’s Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet Sour Memoir of Eating in China (heck, it’s right there in the title), but also because chapter 16 describes the dish as a luxurious delicacy with quite a bit of “snob value” (Dunlop and Wilson 261). This class-defining dish eaten by the rich is clear evidence that food can be, and has been used as a way to define people as “in” or “out.”

It is very clear that just as our food is defined by us, many people have been defined by it. People have historically used food to identify who is in, who is out, who is the same, and who is the other. When visiting Uyghur, Dunlop writes, “For the Chinese, of course, this was always a Barbarian land” (Dunlop and Wilson 239). The label of “barbarian” or “savage” has long been used to dehumanize people and justify discrimination against them. “While the Uyghurs drink tea… they show their nomadic heritage in their liking for yoghurt and other Dairy foods” (Dunlop and Wilson 239). Stereotyping is a harmful form of discrimination, and this shows how it even affects the culinary world.

 Another example of food stereotyping is mentioned in Choice Cuts: A Savory Selection of Food Writing From Around the World and Throughout History, by Mark Kurlansky. It is a writing by French Larousse Gastronomique on American food in 1938. It is explained that “many are the people, here in France, who think, even write, that American cooking is barbaric, and that, in general, Americans do not know how to eat or drink” (Kurlansky 409). This is a reminder that every group of people has their own version of the barbarian. As shown in Astoria: Astor and Jefferson’s Lost Pacific Empire, for the settlers in America, it was those native to America who were the barbarians. That narrative in many ways has remained to this day. However, many white Americans never experience being the “other” or the “barbarian.” This writing is an alternative narrative to most that are distributed in America in that it provides that perspective.

Another reason I chose to illustrate Shark’s fin soup, is that there aren’t very many signs of danger that are as jarring as a dorsal fin poking out of the water. I wanted to depict the danger of food as fuel for prejudice and show what a looming threat (just like a shark’s fin in the water) it is. Food can either fuel oppression, or it can fuel resistance to it. It has great power to break down barriers and bring people together. Larousse goes on to write that American food “is different than ours, but that does not necessarily mean that it is bad” (Kurlansky 409). Even though food can be an identifier of our differences, it should not identify those things as good or bad. Narratives produced in the media are often used to divide people by their differences, and to make the words “different” and “bad” synonymous. If food is used alternatively to celebrate differences, then maybe, one day even shark and man will be able to sit down together at the dinner table as equals.

Food Lab
“Black Beans and Kidney Beans” by me

For the week 3 food lab, I cooked both options a and b so didn’t have a new recipe to follows for this week. I decided to make a recipe for quinoa chili that my girlfriend and I love to make. Black bean soup was one of the famous American dishes listed in Larousse Gastronomique on American Food, and though it isn’t black bean soup, black beans are a central ingredient. Also, because black beans were a star ingredient in week 3’s cooking lab, it seemed close enough to what I could have been making this week. This dish is also relevant because the recipe calls for both salt and sugar, and as mentioned in Choice cuts, the French “criticize Americans…  for their habit of mixing salt with sugar” (Kurlansky 409). This chili is an incredible vegan dish, especially during the COVID 19 pandemic, as it is a wonderful meal when you are stuck inside, and beans are a long lasting food that is very nutritious. I recommend serving it with cilantro and avocado.

The ingredients:

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• 1 medium yellow onion

“Yellow Onion” by me

• 4 cloves of garlic

• 2 medium sweet potatoes

“Sweet Potatoes” by me

• 2 medium red bell peppers

“Red Bell Pepper” by me

• 1 tablespoon chili powder

• 1 table spoon chipotle chili powder

• 1 teaspoon ground cumin

• 1 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

• 2 1/2 cups low-sodium vegetable broth

• 1 (8-ounce can) low-sodium tomato sauce

• 1/2 cup uncooked quinoa

“Quinoa” by me

• 1 (15-ounce) can black beans

• 1 (15-ounce) can red kidney beans

•1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar.

Drawing Food

My artistic decisions were guided by the content and themes of the reading, as explained above. I’m trying to switch up the medium I use for my illustrations each week as a way to ensure that I have to draw something new even if an ingredient is repeated in a future lab. I chose to use water color as my medium for this week because a shark is an aquatic animal and it made sense to use water for a picture of one. I don’t paint very often and saw this as a good learning opportunity. As I try new things with food, I also want to try new things with art. It was a little challenging but I was overall pretty satisfied with how the illustrations turned out. I want to focus less on illustrations of produce next week, to make sure that I get in some drawings of spices, sauce, etc.

Gluttony and Dumplings

 Week 4
“A Lord MEyors Day Nightmare” by me

“The only way to recover my wanton old appetite is to draw a deliberate blind over all the evidence, to switch off my brain, and to eat without thinking” (Dunlop and Wilson 281).

Though there are many differences (as well as similarities) between different cultures and their cuisines, one thing many cultures surely have in common, is the gluttonous corruption of the food industry. Unethical sourcing of food such as factory farming has taken over many aspects of the food industry. Many people across various cultures are aware of the effects of the food industry; contributing to global warming, depleting important resources, etc., and find that the only way to get through their meals is to eat without thinking. Many people can’t confront what they are putting in their bodies these days, and while there are many people who do not have a choice, blindness to these issues only empowers them to continue. The corruption of food is all over, and it silences everybody it touches.

I chose to illustrate myself in my own rendition of the engraving “Fatal Effects of Gluttony: A Lord Mayor’s Day Nightmare” (Whalen) (Williams and Garfield Week 4), as a way to acknowledge the ways that I have contributed to the gluttonous corruption of the production and consumption of food. The turtle straddling my chest in the painting has a dumpling shell, and a cabbage man points a sriracha bottle at me with hands made of scallions as a tofu monster jumps at me in the foreground. In a way, this is a pleasant reminder to me of some of the mindfulness that I have had when making my food choices. The plant-based beings attacking me are representative of a meatless meal and my vegan diet. Though it isn’t for everybody, my diet is one of the ways that I am mindful when I eat. Though my illustration is a confession that like Lord Mayor and Fuchsia “I have been reckless in my omnivorousness” (Dunlop and Wilson 286), it is also a reminder of how I have contributed to progress. After referring to the engraving, Dunlop explains that it makes her think of something her friend once told her: that “All the animals I’d eaten in the course of my life would sit in judgement over me after I was dead” (Dunlop and Wilson 284). If this is true, I certainly would not want to have eaten shark. Should people only eat what they could fight off with their hands? For me, that leaves only plants.

In many ways, food itself can be the very thing to heal the harmful effects of the corruption of food. As food brings people together and breaks down barriers, it naturally encourages thoughtfulness. It is the people who have corrupted it. But as long as there are cultures to identify with food and share it, there will be hope for resistance against reckless consumption. Dunlop explains on the subject of trying new foods, that “of course, once eaten, the deed is done, the taboo broken, and it’s really not so bad after all” (Dunlop and Wilson 310). In the right hands, food can be a tool for breaking taboos and resisting manipulation. This is more important than ever today. Our awareness is under attack as the media runs rampant with narratives obscuring the truth and justifying doing so. As Immigrants are being shut out of the US, it seems very possibly that we are approaching a nail in the coffin for the deceased, so called “information age.” And though narratives in the media may say otherwise, we have lost touch with our food, and it isn’t natural to be that way.

Food Lab
“The Dumpling” by me

I love dumplings, so I was very excited for this week’s food lab. Stephen, our chef-TA, made Tina Hsia Yao’s Chinese New Year Dumplings from our text Heirloom Kitchen. I had never made them before, and I was eager to learn and become a little more culinarily informed. They tasted incredible, but didn’t turn out looking like the perfectly shaped dumplings that I had pictured, and that I have pictured below. Yes, that technically means that I myself am guilty of obscuring the truth, but it’s one little drawing of a dumpling and my pride is on the line. I followed the recipe exactly, but substituted meat with beefless grounds and tofu. Though they didn’t look perfect, it was still very rewarding to accomplish this meal, and I am excited to be able to in the future.

Recipe for Chinese New Year Dumplings

FOR THE DOUGH:

4 cups (500 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

1 cup warm water.

FOR THE FILLING:

1 head Napa cabbage

1 lb ground pork

1/4 cup (60 g) minced soft tofu

“Tofu and Beefless Ground” by me

2 tbsp minced ginger

2 scallions, thinly sliced

“Cabbage and Scallions” by me

1 tbsp soy sauce, plus more for serving

2 tbsp white wine

FOR SERVING:

Soy sauce

Hot chili oil*

This is a progress shot of the drawing of the engraved by me

Stippling Beans and Food Banks During COVID

Week 6
An illustration of the Thurston County food-bank Logo by me

(Wheeler and Sundean Thurston County Food Bank)

“Food insecurity is a characteristic of our food system, one that has been amplified, not created by the COVID pandemic” (Williams and Garfield Pandemic Academy)

During the presentation “Eating During COVID-19: Food Banks and Cooking With Food Insecurity” on May 5th, Robert Coit, of the Thurston County Food-bank explained “people without enough income don’t have access to enough food, the right food, or just food in general” (Coit). Many people experience food insecurity, and as Sarah Williams explained, these issues have not been created by the COVID-19 Pandemic. The pandemic has simply brought pre existing insecurities of the food system to people’s attention.

The systemic inequalities in our food system are a big issue right now, but it is also important to remember that it has been that way for a long time. This is just one example of the inequalities that the COVID-19 pandemic has brought to light. In class, we have talked a lot about the social implications of the pandemic, and none of them are new. They were created by people, But amplified by the pandemic. The people who get sick are the same people who go hungry. The attention that the pandemic has brought to the insecurities of our food system is very important, but it is also important that these issues remain relevant not only in a state of crisis, but also in day to day life.

Robert Coit seems to be very hopeful that this will be the case. He explains, “what I hope is that when things return to normal, there is more of that continuing sense of wellbeing and community…  These crises bring out the best in people” (Coit). Robert Coit isn’t the only one who recognizes the ways the Pandemic has been a catalyst for some positive change. On Soul Fire Farm’s COVID-19 response, it says “This outbreak reveals the interconnectedness of our world…  It is showing, conclusively, that the health and well being of one is intimately bound to the health and well being of all” (Soul Fire Farm). The Food Bank, and Soul Fire Farm are just two organizations working to end inequality in our food system, and their optimism in the face of two separate yet connected health crises, is something we could all use. It is a testament that there are forces working against the oppressive nature of the society we live in. Even in everyday life, the health of one is bound to the health of all. If people are able to maintain that perspective as we ride out COVID-19, then perhaps equality in our food system will be attainable.

Cooking Lab

This week’s food lab was chili, which is what I cooked last week. However, this chili was very different from the chili that I made for the last cooking lab, and as I explained last week, chili is a perfect food to eat during a pandemic. This Chili was much sweeter than the one I made last week, and it contained Mixed vegetables, which I have actually never had in Chili. I followed the recipe exactly, except I used meatless crumbles instead of turkey. It fed my whole family, and though we did polish off the entire pot, we were stuffed. The bread in the broth was another thing that I’ve never tried, but I loved it. It thickened up the chili really well, and it was delightful to come across small chunks of bread in the broth from time to time.

The Recipe:
“Stippled Beans” by me

2 large yellow onions + 2 tbsp cooking oil, caramelized

“Stippled Onion” by me

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 tsp red chili flake

1/4 tsp cinnamon

1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp cumin

1 tsp coriander

1/2 tsp paprika

1/4 tsp ground Pasilla chili powder

“Stippled Chili Powder” by me

1/2 tsp ground California chili powder

2 cloves garlic, minced fine

1 tbsp tomato paste

1 15-oz. can mixed vegetables

3 15-oz. can kidney beans

1 28-oz. can diced tomatoes

About 3-4 cups vegetable stock

2 slices plain white bread, torn into small pieces, for thickening

Drawing Lab

For my recipe illustrations this week, I decided to do stippled ink drawings. I’m trying to make sure that I never use the same medium for two consecutive weeks as a way to ensure that if I ever have an ingredient repeated, I still have to draw it. For the most part, it should actually be possible to avoid ever having to redraw an ingredient, but this week I chose to draw an onion (even though I already drew one last week) as a way to show how two different mediums can wildly change the same image. I also chose to stipple-shade instead of coloring the illustrations, because the way the individual dots come together to create an image seemed symbolic of the concept of the individual being tied to the collective.

I also drew beans again despite having drawn them last week, but that’s just because beans happen to be the essential ingredient for both recipes. This is a good example of why switching mediums was a good idea! These drawings were definitely the most time-consuming ones I have completed so far, but I really enjoyed the process and I was pretty happy with the way the drawings turned out. Drawing food is getting a little bit easier each week. That being said, if I ever have to draw beans again I might cry.

In the book Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat: Mastering the Elements of Good Cooking, Samin Nosrat writes, “the choice to embellish this book with illustrations rather than photographs was deliberate. Let it liberate you from the feeling that there’s only one perfect version of every dish. Let it encourage you to improvise, and judge what good food looks like on your own terms” (12). This is how I feel about my illustrated cooking labs. Also, it liberates me to illustrate, rather than photograph the process because if my food does turn out looking objectively bad, nobody needs to know.

For the illustration at the top of my eating memoir, I chose to illustrate the logo of the Thurston County Food-bank. I just got an iPad for school and for art, and this is the first digital drawing that I have done for this project. It was a pretty quick drawing, but already, I am extremely excited to explore the limitless possibilities of digital illustration in future weeks, and as I illustrate past eating memoirs. I chose to do a colored image of the logo, as I have only seen images of it in black and white, and wanted to provide my own interpretation. The food bank’s mission is to “eliminate hunger in the community, in the spirit of neighbor helping neighbor” (Wheeler and Sundean). This includes eliminating access barriers, and prioritizing health, through partnership and collaboration. I chose to color the two hands different colors to represent food being shared between cultures. Like I said earlier, this was my first digital drawing, and I’m excited to explore the possibilities with digital art as I proceed with this program.

A progress shot of Onion drawing by me

Commensality- Eating together at the Same Table (Remotely)

Week 8
“The Gastronomer” by me

A beautiful thing happens when people sit around a table together for a meal. This naturally social event causes interaction on a very human level over something that is so common yet personal for everybody. Food, by its very nature, provides an intersection for all sorts of perspectives and experiences. Fuchsia Dunlop Illustrates how different these perspectives can be in “Chinese Food, Culture, and Travel: Conversation with Tyler.” She explains, “When you talk about Chinese Cuisine you always have to take it with a pinch of salt and remember, as I always do, that Chinese people talk about something called ‘Sheitan’ (Western food) and make outrageous generalizations about it too. And you know, of course, from a Chinese point of view it makes sense to talk about Western food being different from Chinese. But from a Western point of view, you see all the distinctions” (Cowen and Dunlop).

Everybody eats, but nobody does it in the exact same way. One thing many cultures do have in common, is that eating food is often an inherently social activity. You can learn a lot about people’s different points of view over dinner. Here in America, there is this culture of dinner as a social time for a family to come together toward the end of the day to talk and eat together. Coworkers may eat together on their lunch break. Two friends might go out to eat together after having not seen each other for some time. A couple might go to dinner for a date. Whatever it may be, at the center of all of these human interactions, is the table. And as it can bring likeminded individuals together, it so can unite people of different backgrounds from anywhere in the world. It is very important that people share the food of their cultures with others. This spreading of ideas and tastes and the meanings behind them has the ability to bring people together. It shows us that nobody is really that different. There are commonalities that any two people could find in the way they eat food.

With technological advancement furthering the industrialization of food, this cultural value of food is threatened more and more. Though there are many positive sides to the advancement of technology, the industrialization of food coupled with the changes in what social interaction means (due to social media) are drastically changing the culture of food throughout the world. The image of what dinner was for the American middle class family in 1960s sitcoms, is not what it is today. With many families having dual income households, busy schedules, smartphones, and access to ready-prepared food, a home cooked meal and a conversation are just ‘off the table’ for some. Right now, during the COVID-19 pandemic, the meaning of the table is changing even more from day to day. In the restaurants that are open, every other table is turned upside down to ensure that people keep a safe distance from each other. At ‘Fish Tales Bar and Grill’ in Ocean City, Maryland, they have invented what they call “bumper tables” (Koppelman). In this scenario, people do not sit around a table at all. Rather, the table sits around them. A person stands in the middle of a donut-shaped table on wheels with Inner-tube edges as a way to ensure a physical barrier to keep people at a distance from each other.

Whether for better or worse, food is changing. Dunlop explains how this change has translated in China. She states, “people lead hectic lives and are increasingly eating more ready prepared food. I think you can see that China is going down the same sad path as the rest of us in some ways. But the thing that gives me hope is that in China, food is understood so deeply as the foundation of health and happiness. It has been a culture that is so obsessed with food” (Cowen and Dunlop). One thing that cuisines, technological advancement, and bumper tables all show is that people are inventive and creative. People are passionate. Technology can change and people can change, but one thing stays the same: everybody needs food. As long as this is true, food will remain at the center of people’s lives and it will continue to inspire creation, innovation, and interaction. Change is as common as eating. And as social media has the ability to hinder people’s experience of food and culture, it also has the ability to enhance it on a level that we have never seen before. It is how I am sharing this post about food and culture right now.

Cooking Lab

Grilled Pizzettas

“Pizza” by me

This cooking lab was tough for me, because I got to choose what to cook. I had a tough time coming up with what to make for a little bit, but ultimately, pizza was a no-brainer. My mom’s fiancé (Becky) is Italian and is from New York, so she has a lot to say about pizza. Pizza is also a great example of the cultural boundary-blurring nature of food. It has so many cultural influences, and is made so differently from place to place. There are countless different versions of pizza, which is really just toppings on flat bread. This is one of the most common ways that humans have developed to prepare food. Also, pizza is delicious. It’s a crowd favorite, and one of my personal favorites. I chose to make grilled pizzettas as a way to show an alternative take on the pizza. I also chose to make this recipe because it was one in which the crust had a big defining role, and I wanted to highlight the flatbread aspect of pizza. Becky makes these often, and they are delicious.

The Recipe

FOR THE SAUCE:

Sauté onions and garlic (a lot of garlic) with salt, crushed red pepper flakes, and black pepper in Extra virgin olive oil until translucent (don’t burn)— add two tbs of tomato paste, stir in, add 1 28 oz can of cento San Marzano peeled tomatoes and a little stock or water to achieve desired consistency, simmer until cooked through. Use immersion blender to purée, if desired, and season to taste

FOR THE DOUGH:

1 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing

FOR THE CRUST:

Fill a liquid measuring cup or small bowl with 1/2 cup warm (not hot) water. Add yeast and sugar and stir with a fork; let sit 15 minutes.

Combine flour and salt in a large bowl. Make a well in the center of the flour and pour in olive oil and yeast mixture.

Using a fork, gradually stir the flour into yeast mixture until mostly combined, then mix with your hands to bring the dough together. Turn out onto a clean surface.

Knead dough until smooth. Add flour as needed. Lightly oil a bowl. Add the dough, cover with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm place For one hour or until doubled in size.

Preheat a grill to medium high.

Turn dough out onto a floured surface and divide into 6 pieces. Roll each piece into a ball.

Use a rolling pin to roll out each ball into an oval. Add flour if needed.

Oil the grill and add a few pieces of dough.

Grill for about 2 minutes, until the top is bubbly and the bottom is marked.

Flip and grill until just marked on the other side. Remove from the grill and repeat with the remaining dough.

FINISHING THE PIZZETTA:

Add sauce and toppings.

Place back on grill for a couple minutes, until the pizzetta looks as desired.

“Jalapeno and Mushrooms” by me
Drawing Lab

The following quotes from Art in the Lives of Immigrant Communities in the United States, by Paul DiMaggio Illustrate why food is art. Though the quotes are not on the subject of food at all, I chose them because it would still make sense If they were. For this reason, I argue that food is an art form, though some argue otherwise. All of these quotes also show how art has had the exact same role as food in uniting people of different backgrounds and influencing new creations. Food is just as much of an art as music, visual arts, or dance. In that sense, my illustrations of my meals are simply artistic representations of another preexisting work of art in just the same way that my depiction of Picasso’s “Le Gourmet” or my recreation of the engraving “Fatal Effects of Gluttony: A Lord Mayor’s Day Nightmare” were.

“Le GourME” by me from my Week 3 memoir

“Cultural forms… change As they cross boundaries, incorporating elements of host-country genres or creating true hybrids” (DiMaggio 10).

“Rather than abandon their old cultures, immigrants developed attachments to new styles while retaining their ties to the old, deploying both as signals of intrinsic satisfaction and as signals of identity” (DiMaggio 10).

“Just as immigrants can use art to interpret their own experience to themselves and their communities, so can institutions in the host society use art to interpret the immigrant experience to itself” (DiMaggio 63).

“Both in past and more recent immigration waves, expressive behaviors, including art, have constituted a potent instrument to maintain distinct identities salvage integrity, and negotiate inclusion… because collective self-definitions related to nationality, race, And ethnicity are not static, aesthetic production remains fluid as well, often giving voice to existential realities that are difficult to pinpoint through quotidian language. Art allows for a kind of freedom not found in other forms of communication. And, because the immigrant experience is often restrictive and fraught with danger in receiving areas, art enables immigrants to break across boundaries through the use their imagination” (DiMaggio 13).

“For nearly 35,000 years, the capacity to communicate through art has supplemented and enhanced spoken and written language” (DiMaggio 14).

Because this eating memoir is my last, I wanted the illustrations to cover a wide range of different styles. I also wanted the illustrations to demonstrate my progress in digital art as this post will have the most up to date pieces on it. From my first digital image of the Thurston County Food Bank logo to this week’s featured image, I have learned a lot of new things. For the featured image of this post, I chose to illustrate a picture of myself looking through a telescope at a night sky of food. As gastronomy is the study of food and culture, I decided to call this drawing “The Gastronomer” to play on this astronomy-themed image of food.

For the food lab, I chose to illustrate a pizza in a sort of Andy Warhol-esque way with each slice of pizza being its own color. I felt like emphasizing the different sections of the pizza was a good way to depict the cultural boundary-blurring nature of pizza. The color of each section is influenced by the color of the sections next to it, while contrasting the color of the piece opposite to it. Each small piece comes together to make one whole image, representing the plethora of cultural influences on pizza. I also illustrated a picture of a jalapeño and two mushrooms, as these are my favorite pizza toppings. I think this image is my best digital representation of food yet.

“Caterpillar” by me

Finally, I chose to illustrate a caterpillar for my drawing lab. I did this because of the significance of the caterpillar in Shark’s Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China. Dunlop explains how the caterpillar was symbolic of her culinary and cultural growth in the epilogue of her book, when she writes “As I ran my eyes up and down the small green creature on my plate, I admitted to myself that, try as I might, I couldn’t really feel shocked at the idea of eating it… Living in China had profoundly changed me, and my tastes… Whether or not to eat the caterpillar was no longer a question of whether I dared to eat it, but of whether I dared to show so flagrantly that I really didn’t give a damn. You can probably guess what happened. Reader, I ate him” (Dunlop and Wilson 310).

The caterpillar also seemed like a good way to close my final post, as my first eating memoir, “Pots and Pan(demic)s” opened with an illustration I did of a butterfly. In that post, I quoted Dunlop from chapter 9 saying, “If you want a real encounter with another culture, you have to abandon your cocoon” (Dunlop and Wilson 152). While being cocooned at home During the pandemic, this class and these posts have provided a way for me to leave my cocoon and gain an experience of the world that transcends my small bubble.

When a Jew Isolates

by Sullivan Jordan

( A.N.) The following are excerpts from Sullivan’s Foodways During COVID-19 WordPress website. If you’d like to see the rest of their work, check out their site!

Week 1 Assignment for Foodways During COVID-19 Collaborative WordPress Website Project

Choice Cut from Fuchsia Dunlop’s Shark’s Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China: chapter 9, page 164

“Posters hung all over the city, as they had done during the Cultural Revolution, this time warning not of ‘capitalist roaders’ but of the need for vigilance against coughs and fevers.”

Eating Memoir Writing Prompt: (by faculty Sarah Williams)

Who are you as an eater and how has your eating been shaped by your travel experiences? Who in your family lineage of immigrants most shaped your eating? What historical factors shaped their migration?

Food Lab Prompt: Spanakopita & Authenticity (by Chef TA Stephen Garfield)

     In her introduction to Kanella “Nelly” Cheliotis in Heirloom Kitchen:  Heritage Recipes and Family Stories from the Tables of Immigrant Women, Anna Francese Gass says that Nelly “graciously and enthusiastically taught me how to make several Greek staples, including two kinds of spanakopita…the spanakopita we are familiar with in the United States and real Greek spanakopita.” (65-66)

     Then, in the intro blurb to the recipe, Gass writes: “Through adaptation and migration, the recipe has been altered from its traditional preparation.” (66)

     As an introductory “lab” this recipe introduces many of the ideas we’ll be working with, as far as reflection and transformation of tradition, and what authenticity means. This recipe is from a Greek immigrant grandmother, yet does not use traditional ingredients.  Does WHO is making it grant authenticity? Or is WHAT it’s made of do so? Both? Neither?

Week 1: When a Jew Isolates

For my eating memoir this week I was particularly interested in the second prompt offered (excerpted above) about who I am as an eater and the ways my travel, family, and history have influenced this. In general my origins and family have been two of the biggest influences on how I behave in regards to food and eating (the only other huge one being my health). I’m personally a very simple eater. My last roommate once criticized me coming back from the grocery store saying that I had only gotten, “40 different kinds of bread and cheese.” I come from an interfaith household in Tennessee which my rabbi always said was some sort of testament to the power of love and community, but really just meant we couldn’t put up our Christmas decorations up until after the family Hanukkah party had already happened, which I found inherently very frustrating. The Christian side of my family, my father’s side, is a very traditionally Southern ranching family, conservative and very close knit loud, and passionate about biscuits. My mother’s side, the Jewish side, is a bit wilder, scrappier maybe, huge, and welcoming, but not without judgements to pass on whoever they happen to be welcoming. My grandmothers are the leaders of all the food in my family. My paternal grandmother, I would help in the kitchen always making casseroles or one time salmon croquettes, but most often bacon and eggs for my grandfather before he left to move the cows. She taught me to fish using our leftover bacon fat. A lot of my actual taste in food aligns more with the flavors of my granny’s cooking. My maternal grandmother on the other hand is strikingly Jewish. She makes brisket and kugel and we have challah for Shabbat dinners. She stops in the middle of cooking (burning the brisket) because another woman from her synagogue is calling with some really good gossip about Marsha’s son’s Larry’s new wife (you can’t miss that call). From my grandmother, I learned a lot about what Jewish eating means. And though my grandmother’s latkes or matzah balls echo in my mind with every meal I make or eat, more than that is the philosophy surrounding them. When she cooks she cooks to feed her family and anyone else who could possibly come. Food is meant for sharing and consuming and filling ourselves up, hopefully creating communities as we do. My philosophies around food line up more with hers passed down to her from her mother and her mother’s mother, who came over on a ship from Poland around 1914.

Through my own travels out of Tennessee and living in Portland and now Olympia and living with people who have had such different experiences with food has changed the way I eat quite a bit, to include a lot more things I truly have no idea how to make, foods my mother at some point during her health kick deemed unhealthy, and dishes that are not in Southern Living or the local newspaper and thus my grandmother does not make them.

I like to give myself time to bake when I know I’ll eat it or a special time. I remember I baked constantly as a kid, and no one would eat it, so I would eat as much as possible, but eventually watch my beautiful creations get stale and gross with time. I was constantly baking cakes and pies and sweets when I was younger, but as I got a little older, I got into making bagels and more bread-y things (pizza) which was so fun. My grandfather always used to bake bread as well, which was always fun and strange. I looked through all of Heirloom Kitchen looking for a fun bread-like food to make for this week and was struck by what an even mix of bread-y things there are throughout the book. Everyone has this thing in their culture. We all have the grain that becomes a staple to the food we eat.

I chose to make Emily’s Apple Blinchiki from Heirloom Kitchen. The decision ended up being pretty easy, because I just went through every bread-y recipe and found the ones that didn’t have anything I couldn’t eat in them. I’m pretty sure it ended up just being 2 or 3, so I went with this one, because I love pancakes and I love apples and it had everything in my house!!

It wasn’t really until I started cooking that I realized that it probably would have been helpful to have a grater, because it says to, so I ended up chopping two apples up so so tiny which took a long time. But worth it I would say!

In the process of actually making this recipe, I came to realize how similar it is to latkes (which also stood out to me when they called them “Apple Pancakes”). I have been making hundreds of latkes every year with my grandmother since I was maybe 10, for our big family Hanukkah party. It takes an entire day to make them all and you spend most of it grating potatoes and onions and you leave like drenched in the smell of latke. You can smell it for miles I swear.

It was so so nice to make this recipe and have this reminder of home and family. I even stumbled into some trouble with them not sticking together and when making latkes, you squeeze them in a paper towel to get all of the extra juice out, so I realized that might help with this recipe as well, and I had a lot of luck.

This is all to go next to the fact that they were absolutely delicious. Sweet and savory and enough of home while also being something exciting and different!

This week reflecting on the prompt, I chose to make a meal that came from my grandmother’s Shabbat dinner arsenal. I originally was looking for something more traditionally Jewish that reflected the immigrant experience of my family the way I had been conceiving of it. I realized that the immigrant experience we’re studying is the interaction between cultures and the way movement changes food. With this thought, I realized that the most regular of my grandmother’s Shabbat dinners was perfect. Our Jewish roots are highly represented in it, but there are also the clear influences of Southern food and the sort of American-Jewish way of life my whole family lives in. Of the four recipes I made, only one is a very Jewish dish, and even the method of making kugel is simplified and Americanized. My grandmother has made this kugel exactly like this my whole life. She has always been very busy, active in several communities, an executive at a company, with a PhD and three kids. I could write essays about the inspiration I draw from my grandmother and how meaningful it is to cook the food she has cooked for me. The foods are a combination of Jewish recipes and then recipes that have gotten passed around from her clique of Jewish grandmothers making Shabbos dinner every Friday for their own families. They clip recipes from the newspapers and cans and Southern Living and old family cookbooks, and send them to each other to keep Shabbat dinner fresh.

The experience of actually eating this meal was a bit tough for me. I made the whole thing and felt very connected to my family and the Friday nights we have together. When I finally got all the food on the table, I lit the candles and started crying. I could barely get through the prayers before eating, because it was just such a real experience of being alone and being apart from not just my family but everyone I know. I sent pictures to my grandmother and my mother and then ended up watching some tv while I ate, to keep me a bit of company.

Afterwards when my grandma realized I had carved an old potato to hold Hanukah candles, because I own neither Shabbos candles nor candlesticks, she started packing a box to send me with both. But, the meal pushed me over the edge a bit, and I’ve decided to go back to Memphis and be with my family for a while.

My Personal Eating Memoir

by Makenna Medrano

“Your favorite food when you were a baby was pureed carrot and sweet potato that your dad used to make, that’s why you have such dark skin and good eyesight” my mother always used to tell me growing up. According to my mom all of the carotene was what made my skin glow and why I had flawless eyesight even though both of my parents wore glasses. I am not sure about the science behind her claims but knowing my father’s cooking now, my baby food probably tasted fantastic. I attribute my exposure to fresh, homemade foods as an infant to my love for intense flavors. I was lucky though, my grandfather Gringo Medrano, was born in the mountains of Jujuy, Argentina and I don’t know much about his life but I do know he made the best gnocchi and empanadas de carne so juicy and delicious that my heart aches for them now. Luckily, Gringo taught my father Gaston Medrano (almost) everything he knew.

My dad immigrated to the United States in 1989. He spoke little English and had no money in his pockets. He worked illegally as a horse groom in Santa, Barbara where he met my mother, Elizabeth, a small-town girl from Omaha, Nebraska. Long story short, they fell in love, got married and I came around in 1995. My dad always had a passion for cooking and quickly found his way into the kitchen. One thing led to another and he had the opportunity to own his own restaurant, Pampas. My earliest memories consist of being in Pampa’s kitchen eating freshly grilled asado de tira (argentine ribs), and sucking the salty meat off the bones until my lips hurt, or sitting in the back-parking lot slurping up fresh clams cooked in a zesty garlic, white wine broth. At the restaurant, I was fed food to keep me entertained while my parents dealt with bookkeeping, management, and personal problems of their own. At home, is where my older brother Tauan, my dad, and I would experiment in the kitchen, while my mom spectated and took really cute pictures of us like the one below.

My brother, Tauan, and I cooking, 2000

I should have warned you sooner but my life was extremely complicated, so buckle up. My brother came to the states, from interior Brazil, the year I was born. We have different moms, but that never really occurred to me. With my dad being in the restaurant business and my mom working retail, there were many nights that my brother had to take care of me. His favorite meal to make us was chicken and rice, and when we sat down to eat, being the silly 13-year old he was, he would eat the entire meal like a dog scarfing down his food, not once using his hands. I now realize he did that to make me laugh, and also because our parents weren’t at the table to scold him. My dad took table manners very seriously, I learned how to properly use a steak knife before learning how to write, and we wouldn’t be caught dead with our elbows on the table. My brother and I grew up quick and after unfortunate circumstances, my brother was deported to Brazil months before his 18th birthday. When things settled down my brother started culinary school in Argentina, but he was never one to deal with authority so that didn’t last long. Luckily, he was a Medrano and a third-generation chef, so he effortlessly found himself running kitchens in Brazil, then in Hamburg, Germany. I told you it was complicated. During my frequent visits with him, wherever we were, we found ourselves in the kitchen. Below is an image of our recreation of our childhood favorite, chicken and rice. Although this time, we used utensils.

Chicken and Rice, by Tauan and Makenna, 2015

Tauan and I often dreamed of one day opening our own restaurant on our dad’s land in Brazil, we dreamed of what it would be called, what we would serve and how it would be our chance to be together again. Life went on, we moved to new places, and in 2015, I left the University of Nebraska Lincoln to move to Brazil to live with my dad and brother on our land. One evening, my brother and I were walking home from the beach when we met Roberto, an Italian chef who would change my outlook on food forever. He kindly invited us to his house for a dinner party that same night, we had nothing to do and knew better than to turn down an offer for a free meal. There we met an English shaman, a Chilean hitchhiker, and Italian sailboat owner who would all become close friends of ours. We chatted over wine and fresh tuna, I was lost in a kaleidoscope of new faces, delicious food and fountains of wine I doused my tuna in red wine rather than soy sauce- it became the joke of the evening. I always appreciated flavors of food but for the first time realized the profound impact sharing a meal can connect you to people from all walks of life, the table was a place where all shame, judgment and humility were set aside. Crazy enough, the next day I set sail with the Italian chef, English shaman, Chilean hitchhiker and Italian sailboat owner. We were headed for the closest city, Salvador Bahia, to celebrate Dia de Iemanja, or the celebration of the Sea Goddess. We ate street food like tapioca, acaraje, carne do sol, xin xin, and so much more. We ate and drank until our bellies extended and we could no longer comfortably dance. We went on epic adventures in crowded markets in search for dried shrimp, specialty spices, fresh baguettes, and anchovies. Five months flew by in a blink of an eye, and I decided it was time to go home. My brother and I developed a grand plan, I would move to the states and take advantage of my access to a good education. I would go to culinary school and learn the techniques my grandfather, dad, and brother might not know, along with how to run a successful business.

Things were going according to plan until the morning of February 17th 2016, the day before my first final exams of culinary school. The phone rang suspiciously early. I rolled over to see who woke me from my dreams, my cousin Francine whom I hadn’t spoken to in years. I sleepily ignored it. Another ring, this time my aunt Genoveva, whom didn’t call often. I knew something was wrong so I answered. “There has been an accident, Tauan is gone.” I felt my spirit leave my body, I had to have been dreaming, there was no way. My brother took his own life that morning, throwing me into a pit of despair, I grew sick and purged every bit of nourishment I had in me. My mom and grandma washed me with warm rags in the bath. Everything was a blur, like I was in a twilight zone, an eerie place between reality and my worst nightmares.

Nothing has been the same since February 17, 2016, but I can say with confidence that every obstacle my family and I have faced is what brought me here, to The Evergreen State College. I seek an education, the one my brother and I dreamed I would get. I wake up every day for Tauan, and I wish I knew what my life would be like if he was still here. Now, I take every bite of food with caution, I want to know about where it came from, the love, labor, sweat, and tears that brought the food we eat into the grocery store and onto our plates. I savor every last bite, acknowledging that I am lucky to feel full. Through food I learn to turn tragedy into survival. I want to plant seeds, watch them grow, and understand how the suns energy can turn seeds into fruit, cereals and grains into proteins. I want to travel the world, share meals with strangers and hear about their triumphs or tragedies, learn about what we have in common and what led us all here, to the same table.

There is so much more I can write about, this has been an extremely emotional assignment for me. Initially, I wanted to write about the years my dad transitioned to a raw, whole foods diet and cured his hepatitis C. Or the time I drove 3 hours just for a bowl of cooked to order chowder, the first time I speared a fish, ate the entire thing, felt sick and vowed to never spear a fish again. I wanted to write about how much joy baking fresh banana bread with my little brother brings me. Or the time I went to Africa to study abroad and my mandatory journal ended up being a documentation of everything I ate that day, for 3 weeks straight. How the countless episodes my dad, brother and I watched of Anthony Bourdain inspired me to travel the world in search of cultural experiences. Tauan is deeply embedded in each of these memories, woven into every thread in my life, and perhaps why he became the focus of this assignment.

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