Futurists and Fascists

Italian Futurists were the mystics of the Italian Fascist era. Not focused on ancient pagan rites or preserving the perfection that was in their eyes endangered like their German counterparts, Italian Futurists and fascists alike looked towards the future and the promise it held. It was not so much about returning to something or reveling in the present day as it was about transforming Italy into a technologically advanced, cutting edge, virile and strong country. This meant a total transformation of all things, including Italian food culture, one that had bogged the Italian people down for centuries with its sauce heavy dishes and fattening pastas. Mussolini and the Futurists wanted to reconstruct the idea of Italian food on a local and global scale, make it something that was purely Italian and called upon the arrival of its streamlined future.

In 1932, Filippo Tommaso Marinetti released the book, La Cucina Futurista (The Futurist Cookbook). In it, Marinetti laid out the ways that one should prepare and consume food as a Futurist would. The goal of this book was to provoke conversation and revolution around a cuisine that, in his eyes, needed changing. It advocated for a new style of eating, one that highlighted the engagement of all of the senses and heavy import on the artistic value of food. Marinetti’s goal was to “create harmony between man’s palate and his life today and tomorrow” (The Futurist Cookbook, 21.) While the book was released more as a form of art rather than something intended for the everyday Italian to have in their kitchen, La Cucina Futurista kicked off the political and cultural influence Futurists would come to possess in the years following. Futurism is not by nature fascist however, their values of technology and modernity coupled with a distain for the past mirrored fascist ideals. Futurists and fascists alike sought to cast off the customs and influence of the bourgeois and their heavily French influenced and over the top dining habits.

With lavish French influence and traditional Italian food customs both shunned, what did Futurists feel that Italians should be eating? La Cucina Futurista stressed the importance of the sensory and artistic over nutritional value, prompting its readers to focus on color, texture, mood, shape, or idea while cooking and eating. Futurists diners were also encouraged to do away with their fork and knife, enjoying the full tactile pleasures of their meals. The difference between taste and food was also stressed, where food was simply about filling your belly, taste was a carnal experience, deeply intertwined with one’s sexual desires. The sexualization of food and subjugation of women is undeniable in Futurist food thought. While women had no place in the Futurist world, their ideal body being strong agile and masculine, they did have a place on the Futurist plate. Dishes like “Strawberry Breasts” and “Manandwomanatmidnight” in La Cucina Futurista, explicitly appealed to male eaters and pandered to both their sexual and culinary appetites.

In 1931 Futurists built a restaurant in the Colonial Exposition in Paris entitled Ristoratore Italia. One of two Italian pavilions at the event, the Futurists constructed modern exterior, who’s insides hosted panels themed as “colonial”. This restaurant is a clear connection between fascist and Futurist ideals. Highlighting Italy’s modernization and progress along with its colonial efforts, Ristoratore Italia was a shrine to Italy’s advanced fascist future. The food served inside its walls was classic Futurist fare: towers of meat stuffed with greens (representing the bounty and verdure of Italy) and Elasticake (a ball of pastry topped with zabaglione and licorice antennae) were both served. Different perfumes were pushed around the room by fans and varying tactile experiences amplified the Futurist atmosphere. This event was central in fascists reforming Italian reputation, making a name for itself as a cultural giant amongst the likes of the French. The Futurist movement helped fascists to differentiate themselves and advertise their new technological and streamlined future (Lo Weis, Tasting Fascism: Food, Space, and Identity in Italy).

While Futurist food can at times seem strange and even funny, their connection to fascism is undeniable. Fascists came after women with a push towards growing their families, and they came after men with Futurism, enticing them with erotic dishes or the dream of a strong, masculine future. While most Italians did not incorporate Futurism in their everyday cooking, the Futurist food movement was an extreme example of the culinary reform that took place in many Italian kitchens. Fascists and Futurists worked together towards the common goal of an advanced and technological future, and their coupling had an undeniable influence on Italy’s attitude towards food and eating.